chef andy's blog

Pimientos Padron

Originally from Mexico these little Tapas treats are readily available in Dubai's supermarkets. Having worked in trendy private members clubs in London"s Soho and The now fashionable East End.,our customers would scoff several plate of these with a cold one or two after work.  Fry in 125 ml of olive oil, browning all sides for about 2/3 minutes. Strain on a plate covered with kitchen paper. Sprinkle with coarse sea salt. Allow to cool a little hold by the stalk , that is not eaten and enjoy. 

Lemon Tart

Having had a very busy schedule the last 2 months with back to back bookings . Taste of Dubai was the perfect opportunity to meet new friends and reinforce old friendships. Thank you to all that helped make this event such a memorable one, our stand was attentively maned by Miranda and by Silvie from Key Events. A massive Thank you to Gary Rhodes a true Gentleman and generous in spirit, Table 9 , The Ivy and The Rivington Grill all of your delicious food kept us going over the long three days. 

Hosting a dinner for Aldo Zilli on board a Super Yacht, a big birthday without the bash and a missed chance of dinner, in London with a very Royal guest of honour was all in weeks work or not. I cooked for G.M. Motors , 3 days on board yet another super yacht, the first day's stormy weather did not allow us to go out to sea. This was one of the desserts I served to the guests. With such a busy time ahead I have chosen this recipe for ease for you the reader and my good self.

When  un waxed lemons are available try and use them, as there is a remarkable difference in flavour.

Lemon Tart Filling

5 lemons , 4 of zested and juice of all mixed together

9 eggs 

390 g sugar

250 ml double cream

In  bowl mix the eggs and sugar until dissolved, whisk in the cream and the combined lemon zest and juice. Pour into the pre baked tart shells. Cook @ 130oc until set but still wobbly this can be from 15 minutes to 40 minutes depending on the size of your tart shell. 

Dust with icing sugar and caramelise the sugar with a blow torch. Top with clotted cream or mascarpone cheese and  finely chopped strawberries macerated in a little sugar and lemon juice. 

 

Lamb Kofta "n" chickpeas

Sumac flavoured lamb kofta 

There are two ingredients that I am getting fond of using here in the Middle East the first is sumac ,a small shrub that produces deep red to purple fruits that are ground to make a lemony spice used to flavour salads , lamb or decorate plates of homus. The second is za'atar a wild variety of thyme that has a similar taste to that of oregano. The kofta can be grilled or in this recipe simply poached in a tomato, red pepper and chick pea broth. 

The Kofta

500 g minced fatty shoulder of lamb

2 onions peeled and finely chopped

A small bunch of mint, coriander and za'atar leaves washed and finely chopped

1 tablespoon of sea salt and black pepper

2 tablespoon sumac

1 tablespoon  bharat spice

Mix well together and roll into walnut size balls. This is made easier if you wet your hand in cold water first. Poach in a tomato broth . As recipe below.

2 onions peeled

1 red pepper roasted skinned and de seeded, sliced 

2 cloves garlic

2 tablespoons olive oil

500g tomato passata

2 tablespoons chopped mint , coriander and za' atar leaves

1 tablespoon smoked paprika

2 tins chickpeas washed and strained

salt and black peeper to taste

In a medium sized pot cook the onions and garlic in the olive oil, add the tomato passata and a little water.  Add all the ingredients and poach the meat balls in the broth for about 10 15 minutes . They will come to the top when cooked.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Apple Crumble

 

The rise of the Gastro Pub, has brought about the reinvention of old favourites. As children we used have this treat when visiting our grandparents. In this recipe I use almonds, back home when cob nuts are in season, try them instead. The colours can be made more vibrant with the addition of plums. You can omit the nuts if your dietary needs don't suit.

Serves 4 /6  Preheat the Oven to 190c

6 large bramley apples

225 g butter

light brown sugar to taste

1 cinnamon stick 

2 star anise 

115 g flour

1 teaspoon lemon zest

55g almond slivers

30 g ground almonds

55g muscavado sugar

Saute the peeled and diced apples in half of the butter with the cinnamon stick and the star anise. In a non stick pan cook until the mix is soft and caramelised. 

Make the crumble by whizzing the butter, sugar and  flour together in a food processor until the mix resembles breadcrumbs. Using the pulse button add the almonds and lemon zest. 

You can pre bake the crumble to give a crunchy texture for about 10 minutes on a baking tray.

Pour the apple mix into an ovenproof dish and cover with the crumble mix . Cook for a further 15 minutes and serve with your favourate ice cream or custard. 

 

Canapés

Recent Article in the National U.A.E.

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Christmas Cake

Rich festive Fruit Cake

Being a chef that does not suffer from any baking phobias, as I served my time in the pastry section for some very demanding yet excellent peers. The main thing with baking and pastry is to check you have the right quantities and cook at the correct temperatures.

450 g currants                                                                    

175g sultanas

175 g raisins

50 g glace cherries chopped

50 g mixed peel chopped 

3 tablespoons of brandy or 6 tbs fresh orange juice

Zest of 1 lemon and 1 orange.

Add All the ingredients in this section and allow to stand in a bowl over night covered with a cloth. 

225g soft brown sugar                                                      

1 tbs black treacle

225g softened unsalted butter

4 eggs

Cream the sugar, treacle and add the eggs one at a time. Add to the fruit mix above.

225g plain flour                                                                

1/2 tsp salt

1/4 tsp grated nutmeg

1/2 tsp mixed spice

50g chopped almonds

Sift the flour, salt and spices . Fold into the mix above. Line a 8inch round cake tin with greaseproof paper. Tie brown paper around the outside with string. Pour in the cake mix, sprinkle with the almonds. Cover the top with a separate piece of greaseproof paper with a hole cut in the middle. Preheat an oven to 140c and cook on the lower shelf for 4 1/2 hours. Check to see if cooked by piercing with a skewer. If dry then the cake is cooked. Allow to cool and re wrap in grease proof paper and store in an airtight container.

 

Cakes for Special Occasions

Whilst working on the Isle of Skye this summer at the wonderful Greshornish House http://www.greshornishornishouse.com on the Ardnamurchan peninsula with Neil and Rosemary Colquhoun.  They helped me sharpen my skills in the home baking department. Afternoon teas with Millionaires shortbread, scones, rich fruit cakes, lemon and poppy seed cake were some of the items I made for the guests afternoon pick ups.

My evenings after work would be taken up by reading cook books and the one that caught my eye had input from the owners, whilst they were teaching at Eton College. This recipe with all of life's ups and downs is part of the blog I would like to explore "Food for Thought"

Happiness Cake

Ingredients:

1 cup of good thoughts

1 cup of kind deeds

1 cup of consideration for others

2 cups of sacrifice

2 cups of well beaten faults

3 cups of forgiveness

Method

Mix thoroughly. Tears of joy, sorrow and sympathy.Flavour with love and kindly service. Fold in four cups of prayers and faith. Blend well. Fold into daily life. Bake well with the warmth of human kindness and serve with a smile. It will always satisfy the hunger of starved souls.

Skye High

A friend recently commented on a picture I posted on face book, of  The Isle of Skye, "Heavens Larder". As a chef it is always good to go to the source of the ingredients.

This summer I have foraged for cockles and mussels on The Isle of North Uhist with my good friend "The Rock 'n'Roll Chef", visited The Invershin hotel and collected wild mushrooms and smoked fish there, for Angus and Cheryl. Fished badly and taken plenty of exercise!

Working at Greshornish house I have been lucky enough to use some fab ingredients. The Hotel has won a good for the soul award, great if you are seeking peace and tranquility. The gentle pace of Island life wasn't always matched by me in the kitchen though.

West coast and Island seafood has included such goodies as hand dived scallops,creel caught lobster and crab. The ocean also provided Hake, Ling, Mackerel, Razor clams. Then to add to this  delicious Peat smoked salmon, sea trout and haddock.

Fur and feather from the hill included Venison , Grouse and Rabbit. Locally grown salad leaves garnished various terrines and pate's. The walled garden provided flowers for the tables, new season and exotic varieties of potato, peas, beans, berries and an array of soft herbs.

Using my time wisely I have worked on my weakest area from last season, so its fitting that I post this recipe for a simple dessert of Cardamon and orange infused pannacotta with Scottish berries. The blackberries or brambles as known in this part of the world add to the joy of foraging.

Pannacotta

300 ml double cream

100 ml milk

1.5 leaves gelatine

3 tbs caster sugar

A teaspoon of good vanilla essence

2 pods of cardamon bruised and large strip of orange peel twisted.

Method

Bring all the ingredients except the gelatin to a simmer for 5 minutes then allow to stand off the heat for at least 30 minutes. Strain through a sieve, add to the  gelatin soaked in cold water and squeeze dry. Stir the gelatin into the cream mix and pour into ramekins. Serve with your favourite berry mix and shortbread dusted with icing sugar.

 

Triple Chocolate Brownies

Triple Chocolate Brownies

185g butter

185g dark chocolate

3 eggs

310g sugar

135g plain flour

60g cocoa powder

90g white chocolate buttons

90g milk chocolate buttons

 

Pre heat the Oven to 180c

 

Melt the dark chocolate and butter in a bowl double wrapped in plastic film, over a pan of simmering water. Beat the eggs and sugar until a creamy consistency is achieved. Sieve the cocoa powder and flour together and fold into the egg and chocolate mix. Allow to cool slightly then fold in the white and milk chocolate buttons. Pour onto a tray lined with parchment paper to a 2ccm thickness. Bake for 35 – 40 minutes. Allow to cool before cutting into pieces, eat slightly warm.  

 

 

Calamari

As my son is at school in the U.K. we keep in touch my phone and e mail. As he is growing so are his taste buds, thank goodness. When I asked him if he liked calamari much to my surprise , he does. They are still really cheap here in the U.A.E. @ around 20 dirhams a kilo.The healthy option is clean the hood and score criss/ crossed  at an angle with a serrated table knife. You don't want it too sharp as it will cut straight through. Rub with a little oil and grill until it curls up. Serve with rocket salad and a tomato salsa spiced up with chili flakes.This was a favourate in the 90's London restaurant scene.If you are really stretched for time make tempura squid one Zac's favourate snacks.Simply mix the bought in flour with ice cold water and deep fry in hot oil. Drain on kitchen paper, season with salt and pepper, serve with sweet chilli sauce and a squeeze of lime.

   

Salt and Pepper Squid 

When I used to work in London's soho we would pop over the road to China Town after work and start with this quick and easy dish.

500g cleaned squid hoods

110 g flour

1 tablespoon sea salt

2 tablespoons black pepper

vegetable oil for deep frying

1. Cut the squid in half length wise, score the inside and cut into 2cm pieces.

2. Mix the flour salt and pepper, drench the squid in this mix and shake of excess flour in a sieve.

3. Heat the oil in a large saucepan.

4. Fry the squid in batches allowing the oil to come back to temperature each time. Cook till tender and brown. drain on kitchen paper.

Serve with light soy sauce loaded with sesame oil , chill and finely sliced spring onion.

Top Tip

Put the flour mix in a plastic bag to coat the squid. Hold tightly and shake. 

Out and about I found these little gems

Green pepper Corns , often used in Thai jungle curry. I like treating my self to a fiery pepper sauce to acompany aged Black Angus Rib Eye Steak.

Next time baked Sea Bream.